My journey to Salvador starts at my corner bus stop in Berkeley.  I always enter Salvador on the bus too.  It eases the transition and by the time I reach my place my body has absorbed the feel and sounds of the city.

This trip included visits to churches and neighborhoods you won’t find showcased in the New York Times travel section.  I love these parts of the city.  In my mind, I go back in time when the areas were thriving and alive with day to day routines.  Customs developed then continue today as I watch men carrying sacks of debris walk up the steep zig zag stone streets that connect the lower city to the upper city.  Ladeiras.  Much of who Salvador is began from these neglected neighborhoods struggling for distinction.

Salvador is a funny city.  You either love it or hate it.  I know where I fall.